Traveling the World

4 Days in Fenghuang

by Sean on Jul.02, 2009, under China

Lily on the train

The train pulled into the station in the town of Huaihua at 5:30am. But wait. How can that be? My girlfriend told me it was a 16 hour ride! Trickery! Lies! Oh well, I can still be happy that we saved 4 hours, because the next leg of the journey to Fenghuang involved a 3 hour private car ride. The large buses didn’t leave for another 2 hours, so we decided to grab a private car* for 30rmb and save ourselves the extra 5 hours. The buses cost 20rmb, so for an extra 10rmb, who really cares?

The two lane journey through the mountains took us passed small farming villages, giving us the chance to see beautiful rice paddies. We saw the sun rising in one of the most beautiful ways I’ve ever seen. I fell asleep listening to the sounds of the people fully active at 6 in the morning coupled with my iPod, something that should always be with you when traveling!

Children on their way to school

Along the way, we saw children on the public bus, so I quick grabbed the camera and took a shot, just to give you a glimpse at how poor the countryside inhabitants are.

By this time, I had needed to use the bathroom since the day before, as I’ve never indulged in using the squat toilet to do my duty. It was until after I arrived at the final destination, that I realized the town was so ancient indeed that Western sitting toilets don’t exist here. Because of this, I was forced to teach myself how to properly use the Chinese traditional squat toilets. I don’t know whether to be proud of ashamed of not trying it until the one year anniversary of my arrival in this country! It was such an odd experience, and I realize now how strong Chinese legs must be! It takes perseverance and strength to hold your body up to go to the bathroom!

Hong qiao Bridge

After walking around for 30 minutes looking for a place to sleep, we found the right place for us. If you are interested in staying at the place I stayed at, call 13317436760. It is a family-owned and operated hotel. The rooms are about 30rmb a person each night, and they do NOT speak a word of English. They also do not have western toilets, as does any other place in this town. They are located very close by to the Hong qiao bridge. The address is 凤凰县沙湾6号, or in pinyin, “fèng huáng xiàn shā wān 6 hào.”

Boat ride

Afterwards, we got breakfast and was approached by someone trying to get us to use their private boat for a tour of the river. For a private boat, we paid 20rmb ($3) a person. When they ask if you want to try rice wine, say yes and they’ll take you to the other side of the river, where you’ll get off and walk up to the road and down a minute to a small house on the corner of the street. They let you try a small sample of 8 percent, 18 percent, and 28 percent. You can then buy bottles if you want, and they are much cheaper than in the local markets, and they are much purer. The stores in the market will water down the wine to keep their profits high, but this place doesn’t!

After getting off the boat, we strolled along to try the stepping stones across the river. I highly recommend wearing sandals, as my shoes got soaking wet. It’s tricky, because it looks like you won’t get wet, but most of the steps closer to the center and further on to the other side don’t have any grass above water to block the water from pouring over the steps. When we finally reached the other side, I took off my shoes and socks, and walked back again, but this time to the hotel so I could put sandals on and explore more!

Later in the day, Lily and I grabbed the bottle of rice wine and went for a walk to the center of the new town situated along the river. I bought her a flower crown and we took some pictures and sat down and put our feet in the river and drank the wine. That lasted for only a few minutes, as it began pouring. Without an umbrella, we ran to safety underneath the large umbrellas of the vendors several feet away. I said what the hell, I won’t let some rain ruin my day. I pulled out the cups and poured us some more wine. We drank for the next 10 minutes, until finally a random man walked by selling umbrellas. We bought one and began our long return back to the hotel. Along the way, we had to cross the river on a different set of stepping stones, and walk through the now flooded streets. We were absolutely soaked.

Look for the next part, coming soon.

*For the number of the man who drove us in his private car to Fenghuang for 30rmb a person each way, dial 15115260757


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